Aculco: Waterfalls, Artisanal Cheese and Adventure

Aculco is famous throughout the region for its breathtaking waterfalls, with Salto de Infiernillo being the most spectacular. This collection of waterfalls reaching up to 35 meters high plunges into crystalline natural pools, surrounded by lush vegetation and rock formations that seem sculpted by nature itself.

The name "Infiernillo" (little hell) comes from the brute force of water cascading from above, creating a spectacular display of steam and mist. During the rainy season (June-September), the water flow is especially impressive, while in dry season the water descends in delicate, transparent layers.

The waterfalls are more than just a tourist attraction; for centuries they have been a sacred place for local indigenous communities, who perform rituals of gratitude and purification in their waters. Today, visitors from throughout Mexico come to experience the mystical energy of the place.

The surrounding area is protected as part of a natural reserve, with well-maintained trails and designated picnic areas. The biodiversity is remarkable: sightings of parakeets, coatis, flying squirrels, and hundreds of butterfly species.

Aculco is the heart of artisanal cheese-making tradition in Mexico State. For over 400 years, local families have perfected the art of cheese-making using traditional methods passed down through generations. Aculco cheese has gained international recognition and is protected with Designation of Origin status.

Aculco Oaxaca cheese (also called string cheese) is the most iconic. It's made from fresh cow's milk, curdled and hand-stretched using techniques requiring years of practice. The process transforms simple milk into an elastic cheese with fibrous texture, perfect for quesadillas, flautas, or eaten plain with honey.

Family artisanal cheese shops operate on a small scale, typically beginning before dawn. Master cheesemakers meticulously select milk, control exact temperature (between 34-38°C), and hand-mold the cheese. The process takes 3-4 hours from raw milk to finished product.

Beyond Oaxaca cheese, Aculco produces fresh cheese, cream cheese (with soft and creamy textures), aged cheese (pressed and dried for weeks), and smoked cheese using pre-Hispanic techniques with oak wood. Some artisanal producers experiment with innovative flavors: epazote cheese, serrano pepper cheese, mountain herb cheese.

Aculco offers a complete network of trails ranging from gentle walks to multi-day hikes. The terrain combines pine-oak forest, alpine meadows, and spectacular cliffs with panoramic valley views.

Trail to the Waterfalls (3 hours, moderate): The main path follows the Aculco River through shaded forests. The first 45 minutes traverse fruit tree plantations; then the trail becomes more rustic with rustic wooden bridges over tributaries. You'll reach the Salto de Infiernillo viewpoint at the 2.5-hour mark, with 180-degree views. The final 30-minute stretch descends to the base of the waterfalls where you can swim.

Valley Panoramic Route (5 hours, moderate-difficult): Begins at Cerro El Calvario (elevation 2,850m) and follows the mountain ridge with expanded views of the Aculco Valley, the Neovolcanic Sierra, and on clear days, views of Nevado de Toluca. The trail passes through distinct ecosystems: oak forest, alpine grassland, and ancient geological formations.

Nighttime Hike to Moonlit Waterfalls (2 hours): During full moon, some local operators offer special hikes where the waterfalls are illuminated by natural moonlight. The experience is mystical and photography is extraordinary.

Rappelling Adventure (technical, guide required): For experienced adventurers, local operators offer rappelling descents of the waterfalls (15-35 meters). Includes professional safety equipment, helmet, harness, and certified guide. Minimum age: 14 years with climbing experience.

Aculco's cuisine is inseparable from its ingredients: artisanal cheese, wild mushrooms, smoked meats, and mountain herbs that grow in alpine meadows.

Quesadillas and Antojitos: Quesadillas filled with freshly made Oaxaca cheese are the local specialty. Served with homemade green salsa, raw onion, and crema. Popular additions include squash blossoms, mushrooms, epazote, and rajas (poblano pepper strips). A typical order costs $3-5 USD for three quesadillas.

Mountain Mushroom Soup: During rainy months (June-October), local foragers bring premium wild mushrooms: tree mushrooms, oysters, and rare species like "gallito" (craterellus cibarius). Restaurants prepare creamy soup with homemade chicken broth, local crema, and pasilla chiles. The deep umami flavor is incomparable to any commercial preparation.

Traditional Smoked Meat: Using pre-Hispanic techniques, meat (beef or pork) hangs over oak wood fire for 6-8 hours. The result is tender, smoked meat with deep flavor. Served with nixtamalized corn tortillas, beans, and serrano chile salsa.

Seasonal Pan de Muerto: Although a Day of the Dead specialty, local bakeries make sweet bread year-round with mountain flower pollen, local bee honey, and anise seeds. $2-3 USD per piece.

Recommended Restaurants: La Cocina de Abuela (home specialties, $15-20 USD per plate), Mesón del Río (location with waterfall views, $20-30 USD), and local stalls in the central plaza where you'll find fresh quesadillas ($3-5 USD per order).

How to Get There: Aculco is 90 km (1.5 hours by car) from Mexico City. From D.F., take Highway 55 toward Toluca, then divert toward Aculco (well signposted). Public transport: buses from Terminal Poniente (2-2.5 hours, $10-15 USD).

Best Time to Visit: Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) offer perfect weather (15-22°C). Summer brings frequent rains but spectacular waterfalls. Winter (December-February) is dry and cold but clear skies for photography.

Accommodation: Price range: Basic inns ($25-40 USD/night), charming hotels ($60-120 USD/night), nature cabins ($80-150 USD/night). Book in advance during high season (school holidays, holidays).

Recommended Equipment: Waterproof hiking boots, day backpack (20-30L), swimsuit, sunscreen, insect repellent, digital camera, and binoculars for bird watching.

Permits and Regulations: The waterfall area requires paid entrance (~$3-5 USD). Certified local guides available for specialized hiking. No camping allowed outside designated areas.

Useful Contacts: Aculco Tourism Office (Tel: +52-729-296-0155), local ecotourism operator "Aventuras Aculco" (specialized in rappelling and hiking).